Life in Cambodia

Northern Laos (July 10th - July 15th) or Luang Prabang, the 51st State

So, after a few days in Luang Prabang, we head out tomorrow for the Chinese border, though we won't cross for a few more days. We've spent the past 4 or so days in Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Northern Laos that has been billed as the "best-preserved city in South East Asia." The architecture of the city is mostly early French colonial (at least that is what is looks like to me) and it is, in fact, well preserved...as hundreds and hundreds of guesthouses and restaurants, which will explain the title of this entry. While it is nice to wander around the winding little streets, get lost in the old city feel, and drop in on any of the 50-odd Buddhist wats in town, Luang Prabang's population is probably roughly half Laos and half foreign, and this is the "low" season! I would hate to see the High Season and am thankful that I am not here for that! Its a bit of a shame because it is such a nice town, but other than architecturally, it has sold out to the tourist market. The Night Market, for example, might as well be called the Tourist Market. Maggie and I were hoping the night market was actually going to be a quasi-traditional Lao market being held at night but we were disappointed. There were a few nice things, but overall a lot of it was tourist kitsch. However, once you kinda get past the touristicality (?) of things, Luang Prabang is not a bad place to hang out for a while. We've done a bit of trekking in the surrounding mountains, a little boat riding, and more than our fair share of sweating. During our hike today, our guide was Hmong, and Maggie and I discussed the fact that we've never actually spoken to a Hmong before (see "The Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down" for more Hmong insights.) Actually, a lot of this area is "Hill Tribe" people, which is kinda a blanket name for non-Lao minorities who, as you guessed, live in the Highlands. Maggie has gotten to see a bit more of the town than I have, due to a spot of random illness that has felled yours truly. Without going into too many detailed symptoms, in my expert opinion it feels like a muscle strain in my upper abdomen. This may come as a surprise to you (it did me!) that I, in fact, actually do have a muscle in my abdomen...somewhere. Anyway, it was enough to take me down once in Vientiane and once in Luang Prabang, so I've been taking it easy and it seems to be OK. I did go to the local Laos-China Friendship Hospital in town, but I am probably more qualified than those "doctors" there. I got diagnosed with "Common Cold" just so you know. Speaking of failures and shortcomings, Maggie and I wanted to try and eat local Lao food, seeking out Laap, a traditional Lao dish. WAWa. I bet Laap tastes great if you like raw minced fish! We didn't get much past pushing it around on the plate, hiding it under some veggies, and eventually throwing some money down and making a break for it. Lastly, I just want to mention that we've got new link over there to your right for Our Travel Photos to kinda give you guys an idea of what things look like. Get to the Flickr site and click on the Laos set and enjoy!

posted by Life in Cambodia @ 4:05 PM